TOUR OF BRITTANY, THE LOIRE AND NORMANDY
6TH – 17TH MAY, 2003
ITINERARY
4.45 pm Depart St Louis on Flt No AA134
Overnight: On board aircraft
6.55 am Arrive London Gatwick (South Terminal)
o/a Depart for tour - Luggage day
Suggestions for places to see today
Flagship Portsmouth
Open: 10.00 am
Portsmouth Last admission: 4.00 pm
Tel: 02392 861 533
Granted a charter by Richard 1 in 1194, and established as a naval dockyard during the reign of Henry VII, ‘Pompey’, as it is affectionately known by the locals, has been alive with the comings and goings of the Royal Navy for over 800 years. Despite severe damage during WWII, Old Portsmouth still retains a flavour of its past.
Admiral Nelson’s HMS Victory and the Royal Naval Museum
HMS Victory was Lord Nelson’s flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 and is not only the oldest commissioned ship in the British Navy, but indeed the world. The very informative tour of the ship is well worth doing and recreates what it must have been like for the 850 men and ‘boys’ who crewed her.
King Henry VIII’s Mary Rose Ship Hall and Exhibition
See the remains of Henry VIII’s flagship, which was finally brought to the surface again in October 1982, being sprayed by the preservative Polyethyleneglycol, then visit the marvellous exhibition hall where over 12,000 items, saved from this impressive wreck, provide a great eye-opener to the social history of that time.
Queen Victoria’s Warrior 1860
In her heyday, HMS Warrior was the world’s first iron-hulled armoured battleship, powered by steam as well as sail. She was the pride of Queen Victoria’s fleet and is quite different in character from HMS Victory.
5.00 pm Dinner at Caffe Uno - Port Solent - Tel: 023 9237 5223
Reservation for 5
Dress code: casual
Marina-side restaurant, offering variety of pasta, pizzas, fish and chicken dishes. Fully licensed and open all day from 12.00 noon
7.30 pm Check-in at Brittany Ferries Portsmouth Harbour
Reservation No: T
8.30 pm Depart Portsmouth
Overnight: On board Brittany Ferry
2 x Commodore Class cabins
Premier service with spacious, luxury cabins. Complimentary cabin service includes continental breakfast, morning coffee or afternoon tea.
Please order breakfast the evening before, should you wish for this to be delivered to your cabin in the morning and remember to put your clocks forward one hour from British Summer Time to take into account Standard French Time.
Free breakfast taken in your cabin, if ordered the night before.
08:00 Arrive St Malo
o/a Depart for tour Luggage day
Welcome to France and, in particular, to the Côte D'emeraude and Saint Malo. Built of granite rock in the English Channel, the bathing resort of Saint Malo is best known for its castle, the cathedral of Saint Vincent, and its 14th century ramparts, which overlook the sea. Saint Malo is the birthplace of famous French writer and statesman, Chateaubriand.
Suggestions for places to visit today
Abbey of Mont-St-Michel Price: € 7.00
Mont-St-Michel Open: 09.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 33 89 80 00 Last admission: 6.00 pm
Journey time from St Malo - 33 miles (1 hr)
 The abbey of Mont Saint Michel, otherwise known as the Marvel, is famous worldwide. There are many things to see and to do; the main street with its shops and museums; the walk around the ramparts, with views out over the sands of the bay, as well as the spectacle of the sea rushing in to surround the Mount at each high tide.
An isolated 80m high granite rock emerges from the muddy estuary of the Couesnon River on the boundary of Brittany and Normandy to form the island of Mont-St-Michel. A site of importance since prehistoric times, there are quicksands in this notoriously treacherous estuary where the 16 kms of mudflats are quickly covered by the incoming tide, occasionally flooding the car park! It may have been a place of worship in pre-Christian times, for it’s original name was Mont Tombé, meaning a burial ground. In the 8th century however, the Bishop of Avranches built St Michael’s Chapel. Legend has it that is was designed according to the instructions passed on to the Bishop by the Archangel Michael in a vision. A monastery was founded in the late 10th century and throughout the Middle Ages the site had a dual religious and military role. As a fortress, Mont-St-Michel resisted the English throughout the Hundred Years’ War.
Pilgrims have been visiting the island since before the monastery was founded. Today, over three million visitors a year file up the steep and narrow Grande Rue to ‘Le Merveille’, as the abbey is known. The buildings are fine Gothic and Romanesque in architecture and the most beautiful elements are the church, cloister and refectory. At the top of the 159m spire is the 19th century figure of St Michael, recently re-armed, having lost his sword in a thunderstorm. Wander the narrow streets and enjoy. I would recommend the cafes up on the ramparts should you wish to rest – less crowded than the ‘main’ street.
Dinan - Journey time from Mont Saint Michel - 36 miles (1 hr 10 mins)
 Stroll around one of the most beautiful towns in Brittany. Dinan is a wonderfully preserved mediaeval town, containing a surprisingly rich architectural heritage, surrounded by 600 year old ramparts and guarded by an impressive fortress, high above the River Rance. Full of cobbled streets, timber-fronted houses, craft shops and weavers’ workshops and the famous rue de Jerzual and the “Jardin Anglais”.
This afternoon we leave Normandy behind us as we head 127 miles westwards into Brittany, one of France's most rugged regions, with a fascinating mix of spectacular coastline, ancient towns, magical islands and inland woods. A Celtic duchy for more than one thousand years before its annexation to France in 1532, it is a land rich in culture, tradition and history. When you journey through this Western peninsula, you'll discover a people whose language, customs and dress remain a vivid homage to their past.
8.00 pm Dinner at L’Ambroisie Journey time from Landudec 13 miles (25 mins)
49 rue Elie Fréron - Tel: 00 33 2 98 85 00 02
Dress Code: Smart casual
Reservation for 5
In his intimate restaurant, L’Ambroisie, close to Quimper cathedral, Gilbert Guyon would be unable to devise a dish that was not linked in some way to Cournouaille regional fare. His whole cuisine expresses this passion for combining carefully prepared local produce with current culinary tastes, using precise cooking methods and delicate sauces for a result that is light and sophisticated.
Overnight: Château du Guilguiffin Journey time from Dinan - 127 miles (4 hrs)
29710 Landudec - Host: Phillippe and Angelika Davy
Tel: 02 98 91 52 11 - Fax: 02 98 91 52 52
E-mail: chateau@guilguiffin.com
 The enchanting Château du Gulguiffin is a gorgeous stone manor accented by white shutters, steeply pitched slate roof, perky dormers, and a profusion of chimneys. A circular drive sweeps to the entrance facing onto a lawn enclosed by three circular walls interrupted by three 18th-century columns with unique Oriental motifs, which make this 1400-acre property a “historic site.” The elegant decor is outstanding, with beamed ceilings, mellow wood panelling, and heirloom antiques. In contrast to the formal parlour, the breakfast room is delightfully casual with a “walk-in” stone fireplace. Guests enjoy breakfast at one large table. The bedrooms are exquisitely furnished with antiques accented by fabric-covered walls and colour co-ordinating draperies and bedspreads. The garden too is equally stunning. Early spring presents an unbelievable spectacle of 350,000 daffodils followed by thousands of azaleas and rhododendrons. Restaurants are just ten minutes away. Philippe Davy is an exceptional host and the Château has been in his family for over 900 years.
8.30 - 9.00 am Depart Château du Guilguiffin for day tour
Today is a Bank Holiday for the French – La Fete de la Victoire 1945
Suggestions for places to visit today
Quimper Journey time from Landudec - 13 miles (½ hr)
Quimper is located in the very heart of traditional Brittany at the confluence of the Odet and Steir rivers. This confluence (in Breton, 'Kemper') gives its name to the town, which nestles between seven hills carved by the rivers. The nature of this geographical setting long ago made Quimper the centre of the pays de Cornouaille, and in particular a centre for commerce.
Cournouaille’s 6th century King, Gradlon made Quimper his capital after the destruction of Is and a statue of him stands between the twin spires of the fine Gothic cathedral of Saint Corentin, which also contains exceptional examples of 15th century stained glass windows. Quimper takes tradition seriously, and is full of well-kept charm; cobbled squares, timber-framed houses, picturesque streets between corbelled houses and aristocratic mansions: these are the first aspects of Quimper that strike the visitor as well as costumed and coiffed old ladies making lace.
The time-worn slate and stone convey the true character of the pays de Cornouaille. Wherever you look you will see old houses, manors and mansions, some over 400 years old. Saint-Corentin Square, heart of the walled city, Laennec Square and the Musée des Beaux-Arts are worth seeing, but dominating it all is Mont Frugy, rearing more than two hundred feet over the city.
The capital of Cornouaille has many facets: it was a kingdom, an earldom, and a bishopric. Quimper cannot be defined by administrative or political boundaries. Cornouaille has a definite Celtic character even though its name no longer appears on official maps: it exists today through the people who feel a real sense of belonging to the region. And this could also be said for the whole of Brittany.
Saint Corentin Cathedral Price: Free
Quimper Open: 9.00 am - Last Admission: 6.00 pm
The building of the Cathedral of Quimper started on the 13th century. Works began with the construction of the choir, which incorporates the old chapel Notre-Dame and protected the tomb of Alain Caniard, conqueror of Norses in 913. The front, the towers and the nave were added in the 15th century, after the Wars of Succession for the Dukedom of Brittany. The nave was built in place of an 11th century Romanesque church.
The fact that the Cathedral of Quimper is built on the remains of two older buildings, may explain an original architectural peculiarity: the axles of the nave and the choir are not aligned. The successive builders have certainly preferred to use the foundations of the Chapel Notre-Dame and the Romanesque church.
The last addition to the Cathedral were the two 80 metre spires, which now dominate Saint Corentin Square. They were added in 1856 by the architect Bigot to replace the basic "extinguishers" which until then were at the top of the two towers. Those spires are inspired by the 15th century church from Pont Croix. In order to raise money for the building, the diocese established a tax of one "sou" each year, for five years, in the parish of Quimper. This tax was nicknamed the "sou from Corentin" and later gave rise to a popular song.
Pont Aven Journey time from Quimper – 22 miles (½ hr)
In the 19th century, Pont-Aven was a small commercial town known for its mills and its port. It has always inspired artists, and American painters began arriving here in 1865. From 1865 onwards, life in the town changed radically. At the end of the deep creek that carries the waters of the River Aven to the ocean, there once existed a ford that primitive populations used. A bridge replaced the ford when the Romans established a network of roads across Armorique. This ideal location attracted a small population to the two banks. The residents benefited from this crossing place situated at the junction of a road and a well sheltered tidal port.
Another advantage first exploited in the high Middle Ages served the agglomeration's development for years to come: the rocky chasm, which provided monks and lords from surrounding areas with natural waterfalls, meant many mills were built in a small area, giving Pont-Aven its first taste of fame : "Pont-Aven, that famous town, fourteen mills and fifteen houses."
Throughout the years, tradesmen, millers and sailors, including "chasse-marée" ("coastal luggers"), set out for Nantes and Bordeaux carrying local grain and bringing back wine and salt. A famous family set up their seigniorial justice in Pont-Aven, drawing many lawyers and judges to they area and it was they who built the beautiful houses that still stand on the left bank of the River Aven.
With its paved streets, granite houses and covered market, Pont-Aven was a prosperous little town that boasted twelve fairs and fifty markets each year. In the 18th century, locals complained that on Tuesdays, it took an hour longer than usual to cross the town due to all the people.
Existing pubs and inns had trouble satisfying demand. A real port with adapted docks was built, letting Pont-Aven trade with places as far away as Great Britain. The coastal trade and the milling trade were having trouble keeping up and would have drifted into oblivion, as so often happens to ports at the end of creeks, if something else hadn't caused the town to grow. The town's beauty ended up saving it.
In the middle of the19th century, a wish came true: Brittany, an archaic region, became fashionable. The railways allowed people to discover this hidden land. In the 1860's, American painters settled in Pont-Aven; they were followed by hundreds of fellow artists from all over the world. Julia Guillou's travellers' hotel welcomed them, but it was in Marie-Jeanne Gloanec's inn that Paul Gauguin and Emile Bernard met; it was this meeting that gave birth to an artistic revolution that made Pont-Aven known around the world. It all happened in a short period of ten years, but the repercussions are still being felt today.
As the years go by, Pont-Aven is still famous for these prestigious innovators. The town also honours another lover of the city of painters: songwriter Théodore Botrel. It wasn't until recent decades that painting came back to Pont-Aven. In the 1960's, the number of exhibitions grew, a museum was created and failing shops made room for galleries and individual exhibitions. In its well-conserved site, Pont-Aven is still "Bro goz ar milinou, Baradoz an arzou" (mills of the old country, of the artists of paradise).
The Pont-Aven costume is considered to be one of the most becoming in Brittany. It consists of a long black dress with wide sleeves of embroidered velvet, a pastel apron, a large pleated ruff (unique to the town) and a coiffe with lace wings and light-coloured silk ribbons. "The costume varied according to the wearer's age, social position and economic crises."
The Inns
When the little town was growing, two women played an important role. They were innkeepers who knew how to welcome artists, make their stay easier, facilitate their work and incite them to come back. Their names are still famous in spite of the fact that their establishments have disappeared.
Julia GUILLOU (1848-1927)
The "good hostess" welcomed "academic" travellers and "the Americans", the name given to this cosmopolitan artists' colony. Julia took over the hotel in 1871 and helped it prosper and grow. She had an immense addition built in Pont-Aven (today, this addition is the town hall) and another built in Port-Manech.
Marie-Jeanne GLOANNEC (1839-1915)
She opened her modest inn in 1860; today, it is the Maison de la Presse. Many are surprised by the smallness of the place: where did the "artists' colony" stay? Most of the artists stayed in private homes. The Pension Gloanec was mainly filled with the "impressionist" painters who, along with Paul Gauguin, made up the School of Pont-Aven. A plaque and a medallion were put up on the facade of this building August 6, 1939.
If you lift your eyes in Pont-Aven, you will often see glass windows on the highest floor of houses or just under the roofs (especially on rue Emile Bernard). These are the studios that were converted for the painters by home owners.
Hôtel de la Poste
This was the new artistic residence after World War One; it remained popular from the 1920's until the 1940's. It was a throwback to the great era of the end of the century and welcomed the artists and writers who made up the "other generation" in Pont-Aven (Asselin, Vaillant, Mac Orlan, Vlaminck...). It was run by Ernest and Julia Correlleau until it was taken over by their daughter, Nicole.
Musée Bigouden Price: € 3.50
Hôtel de Ville, Pont L’Abbé Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 98 66 09 09 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between 12.00 noon and 2.00 pm
Journey time from Pont Aven – 32 miles (1 hr)
This Museum is housed in the medieval dungeon of the old castle of the Barons of the Pont. The Bigouden Museum has a wide range of exhibitions, which cover the geography, political, religious and literary history of the Bigouden country. The Bigouden house; its furniture, tools and farming practices. The different colourful traditional costumes and head-dresses worn in this area between 1850 to 1950, and the associated industries of tailors, embroiderers, lacemakers and jewellers. Finally, there is an exhibition of the maritime culture of the area; the harbours, sailors, type of boats and nets used to fish this area, together with exhibits from the canning and the oyster-farming industries.
Pointe du Raz Journey time from Pont l’Abbe – 30 miles (1 hr)
Take a drive to the celebrated Point du Raz with its 70m cliffs, Brittany’s most spectacular rocky cape.
7.30 pm Dinner at Château du Guilguiffin
Route de Pouldreuzic - Pluguffan - Tel: 00 33 2 98 94 00 56
Dress code: Smart casual
Overnight: Château du Guilguiffin Journey time from Pointe-due-Raz - 21 miles (45 mins)
29710 Landudec - Hosts: Phillippe and Angelika Davy
Tel: 02 98 91 52 11
Fax: 02 98 91 52 52
E-mail: chateau@guilguiffin.com
The enchanting Château du Gulguiffin is a gorgeous stone manor accented by white shutters, steeply pitched slate roof, perky dormers, and a profusion of chimneys. A circular drive sweeps to the entrance facing onto a lawn enclosed by three circular walls interrupted by three 18th-century columns with unique Oriental motifs, which make this 1400-acre property a “historic site.” The elegant decor is outstanding, with beamed ceilings, mellow wood panelling, and heirloom antiques. In contrast to the formal parlour, the breakfast room is delightfully casual with a “walk-in” stone fireplace. Guests enjoy breakfast at one large table. The bedrooms are exquisitely furnished with antiques accented by fabric-covered walls and colour co-ordinating draperies and bedspreads. The garden too is equally stunning. Early spring presents an unbelievable spectacle of 350,000 daffodils followed by thousands of azaleas and rhododendrons. Restaurants are just ten minutes away. Philippe Davy is an exceptional host and the Château has been in his family for over 900 years.
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château du Guilguiffin for Château de Coet Caret Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
HB – Henriot Faience Factory Price: €3.00
Rue Haute, Quimper Open: 9.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 98 90 09 36 Last admission: 3.15 pm
Closed between: 11.15 – 1.30 pm
Journey time from Landudec – 13 miles ( ½ hr)
HB-HENRIOT is one of the few remaining faïenceries in France to continue the art of handpainting. The tradition of Quimper's famous "coup de pinceau" (stroke of the brush) continues today as over the past 300 years.
Whether it be the decoration or the other stages of making Quimperware, the craftsmanship has remained the same. Each piece of Quimper pottery is fully and individually handpainted, without the use of transfer or decal, and is initialled by the artist. A visit to the workshops will allow you to view and appreciate the skill and dexterity of the artist's craft.
Water, Earth and Fire, essential elements are embodied in our fine-grained faïence. Hand and Spirit of the artist transform every piece into a work of art. The final firing gives life to the creation.
HB-Henriot Quimper faïence is the only French pottery continuously made since the 17th century. Thousands of molds and hundreds of patterns have been created and remain in the archives. Today's artisans, working as their ancestors, are inspired by the rich and varied culture of Brittany and apply these images to their art. Painting entirely by hand with meticulous care and a sense of pleasure imparts an unrivalled brilliance to the final product.
The tour lasts 35 minutes.
Quiberon Journey time from Quimper - 73 miles (1½ hrs)
 A visit to the vibrant seaside town of Quiberon will take us on a lovely little detour along the Côte Sauvage overlooking the island of Belle Ile. Lovely vistas and coastal scenery with drifts of pink sea thrift on sparkling granite rock.
Carnac Museum of Prehistory Price: €5.00
10 Place de la Chapelle Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 97 52 22 04 Last admission: 4.00 pm
Closed between 12.00 noon and 2.00 pm
Journey time from Quiberon – 12 miles (22 mins)
Visit this excellent museum of Prehistory before heading out to see the greatest collection of megaliths in the world. The story goes back to 450,000 years BC and recounts the different stages of civilisation up to the Gallo-Roman period.
Standing on the south-west coast of the Brittany peninsular, are over three thousand standing stones. Some stand alone, the tallest towering to a staggering twenty feet above the ground, while one, now lying in five pieces, once stood over sixty-six feet high and weighed nearly 350 tons.
 The most spectacular of the monuments of Carnac are the so called ‘alignments’, multiple rows of standing stones running for hundreds of yards in the direction of the mid-summer sunrise. The greatest of these is the ‘alignment of Menec’ where, with two interruptions of a couple of hundred yards or so, 2,935 standing stones form ten (and over some stretches thirteen) parallel lines for nearly two and a half miles. The largest of these stones is over 20 ft tall and the smallest just over 2 ft. Excavations have given no clue as to the significance of these immense stone avenues, but their purpose is undoubtedly religious and the scanty store of artefacts found among them dates the site as being contemporary with Stonehenge.
The Carnac alignment site is the biggest megalithic site in the world. It dates back to about 4,500 BC. Important measures were taken to safeguard the monument in 1991, to help preserve and restore the surrounding soils and the vegetation, so, like Stonehenge, one can only view the site from behind a fence, but they are immensely impressive all the same.
Gavrinis Tumulus Price: (tbc) €
Lamor-Baden Open: (tbc)
Tel: 00 33 2 97 57 19 38 Last admission: (tbc)
Journey time from Carnac 18 miles, ½ hr
Take the ferry boat from Larmor-Baden to the Island of Gavrinis in the Gulf of Morbihan, which is to the east of Carnac, where you can see a tumulus that has been excavated to expose a massive 5000 year old burial chamber with a façade resembling a step-pyramid. In the chamber, and the passageway leading to it, every stone is covered by carvings. Although somewhat simplistic, the fingerprint whorls, axe-heads and other conventional signs including spirals, are perhaps more familiar to Ireland and the whole structure is not unlike Newgrange, north of Dublin. It is 240 ft in diameter, 30 ft high and contains some 10,000 tons of stone, all of which were quarried from Locmariaquer, 3 miles away.
The ferry was out of action when we visited, but the Museum thought it would be up and running by the time we travel and times and prices were unknown. I can check with the Museum before we make any unnecessary journeys to Lamor-Baden. Boats depart daily between 9.30 am – 12.30 and 13.30 – 18.30. Last boats leave at 11.00 and 17.00.
The Gulf of Morbihan
Interestingly, Maribihan is the only one of Brittany’s départements with a specifically Breton name: It means ‘Little Sea’, a reference to the vast mud-rimmed tidal lagoon known as the Gulf of Morbihan. The gulf forms an almost complete circle, including the Vannes and Auray estuaries and encloses some 40 inhabited islands: the entrance to this inland sea is just 2km wide. In the 1st century BC the gulf was the site of a sea battle between the local Veneti tribe and the forces of Rome. Julius Caesar watched from the summit of a prehistoric tumulus on the shore near Arzon, on the southern arm of the entrance to the Gulf. Low tide here reveals huge expanses of mud flats and oyster beds. The gulf is the breeding ground for flat oysters, which are grown on lime-washed tiles until they are big enough to be transported to parks all round the Breton coast
 Ile de Fedrun
Before dinner, stroll around this lovely little village in the middle of the Brière National Park, which contains over 20,000 acres of peat bog and is, for the most part, a bird reserve. The few villages that exist are built on granite mounds, which become islands in the winter when the bog floods. The scattered population ekes out a living by fishing for eels in the streams, gathering reeds and cutting peat when permitted. Enjoy the peace and quiet of this ring of traditional white thatched cottages, each with its own punt berth, and then dine in a traditional thatched auberge.
7.30 pm Dinner at the L’Auberge du Parc Journey time from Herbignac – 8 miles (17 mins)
La Mare aux Oiseaux - 162 Ile de Fedrun
Tel: 00 33 2 40 88 53 01
Dress code: Smart casual
Reservation for 5
The chef of the Mare aux Oiseaux restaurant, Eric Guérin, was born in Toulouse, but fell for this traditional Gallic village in the Brière National Park at a young age and was unable to resist its timeless quality. Once his studies in Paris were over, he came here at the age of 25 to live in harmony with the surrounding marshland. His cuisine is intuitive and spontaneously inventive with lots of land/sea combinations. His dining room and table express all his passion for birds, hunting and art as well as cooking creative, innovative and gastronomic dishes with good regional products.
Overnight: Château de Coet Caret Journey time from Lamor-Baden - 40 miles (1¼ hrs)
44410 HERBIGNAC Journey time from Carnac – 51 miles (1½ hrs)
Hosts: M et Mme de la Monneraye
Tel: 00 33 2 40 91 41 20 - Fax: 00 33 2 40 91 37 46
E-mail: Coetcaret@free.fr
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château de Coet Caret for Château du Plessis Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
Angers Journey time from Herbignac - 95 miles (2½ hrs)
Lying on the banks of the River Maine, five miles north of its junction with the Loire, Angers lies in the area known as ‘Black Anjou’ on account of the local rock, which lends a rather forbidding tone to the buildings compared to those of Touraine further east. Capital of Anjou and gateway to the Loire valley, Angers is distinguished as much for the richness of its heritage as for its cultural and economic dynamism. It is the 16th largest town in France, with 156,000 inhabitants and an urban area of some 260,000 inhabitants, Angers is above all a youthful town with more than 30,000 students.
Thus, if the towers of the imposing castle fortress watch peacefully over the heights of the town, in the streets, museums, gardens, shops, gastronomic restaurants, art festivals and student life give colour to the famous Angevin softness".
With its face to the future, Angers is nonetheless a town full of history. Since 50 BC, from the time when Angers was called Juliomagus, until the present rapid expansion, the town has seen some of the greatest figures in the history of France passing through it. It is the quintessential Loire city; historic capital of Anjou and home of the Plantagentets. Henry II was the first Plantagenet King of England, and during his reign in the 12th century, Anjou became an English possession. This remained so until Duke René I died in 1481 and Anjou reverted to the French crown. It may be of interest to note that in 1940 the provisional government of Poland was based in Angers.
Angers enjoys world-wide prestige by being the gateway to the Loire valley, recently recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage for humanity. The "cultural landscapes" surrounding the town and bordering the Loire are indeed of incomparable splendour and represent without any doubt one of the most beautiful natural wet regions of Europe. Slate quarrying is an old-established industry in the surrounding area as are the wines of Anjou. Other important industries are textiles, electrical apparatus and appliances.
Markets are held today in Place Leclerc and Rue Saint Laud where the produce is all organic.
Château d’Angers Price: € 6.10
Promenade du Bout du Monde Open: 09.30 am
Tel: 00 33 2 41 86 81 94 Last admission: 5.30 pm
 Set on a 105ft high crag overlooking the Maine, the black shale fortress walls and 17 drum towers of Château d’Angers dominate the skyline and are a remarkable testimony to mediaeval defensive architecture. The castle was originally built by Foulques Nerra in 1230 and was renovated in the 13th century. During the 16th century Wars of Religion, Henry II ordered the towers to be pulled down, but in the end only the tops were destroyed. Only one of the two gates, the North Gate, the Porte de Ville can be used today and there are still considerable stretches of wall where one can walk to gain good views over the city. In the castle courtyard are the Gothic chapel, the Logis Royal and the Logis du Gouverneur. The Lodgings contain 14th and 18th century tapestries, the most famous of which is the incomplete, but superb series of 70 works, “Tapestries of the Apocalypse” illustrating the Apocalypse of St John the Divine. It was commissioned by the Duc d’Anjou in 1375 and made in Paris by Nicolas Bataille from cartoons by Hennequin de Bruges. These huge works (100m long and 5m high) were intended for Angers Cathedral. It is amazing that they have survived, but the Bishop of Angers bought all the fragments he could find in 1843 and restored them. Guided tours normally go out at 10.15, 11.30, 2.15 and 3.30.
Angers Cathedral Price: Free
Place du Ralliement Open: 08.30 am
Tel: 00 33 2 41 87 58 49 Last admission: 6.00 pm
 An early gothic cathedral dedicated to St Maurice. The façade has three towers, the central tower having been built in the High Renaissance period. The doorway has sculptured figures with remains of their original colouring. In the tympanum is Christ enthroned, surrounded by the symbols of the four Evangelists, and above this are eight 16th century statues of knights.
Inside the interior is impressive with fine 12th, 13th and 15th century stained glass windows depicting scenes from the life of the virgin and the martyrdoms of St Catherine of Alexandra and St Vincent. Tapestries and a richly decorated 18th century organ are also of note. The cathedral treasury houses an antique marble bath converted to a font.
Maison d’Adam
Immediately behind the cathedral is the Maison d’Adam a handsome and well-preserved 15th and 16th century half-timbered house – it now sells souvenirs and artisans crafts. There are plenty of restaurants and shops beyond this point to explore
Le Château du Plessis Bourré Price: € 8.00
49460 Ecuille Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 41 32 06 72 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between 12.00 noon and 2.00 pm
Journey from Angers – 15 miles (½ hr)
Last tour goes out around 3.30pm
Chateau due Plessis Bourré
This magnificent moated fortress, north of Angers, is not only one of the finest houses in Anjou, but also one of the best examples of secular architecture of the late 15th century. Built by Jean Bourré during the period, which marked the transition from heavy feudal fortress to elegant abode for gracious living, le Plessis Bourré’s sumptuously decorated living quarters (including an exceptionally fine painted wooded ceiling in the guardroom) surround a huge courtyard.
Undoubtedly made rich by his important job as Minister of Finance and principal confidant of King Louis XI, in 1462 Jean Bourré bought a property known as Plessis-Le-Vent, an old manor house on the basis of which he started to build the present Château in 1468. Within five years the masterpiece was complete. Today we have the good fortune of seeing it as the builder designed it.
The existence of Plessis-Bourré has several times been compromised. It managed, however, to survive the Revolution with no damage apart from the destruction of a tomb and the addition of graffiti, while its owner, the Count of Ruillé, was beheaded at Angers. In 1911 Senator Vaisse, grandfather of the present owner, took possession of the property. A great art lover, he returned the Château to its original condition and furnished it tastefully. The decision was then taken (1931) to classify it as an Historic Monument.
Requisitioned during World War 1 for use as a hospital to care for the wounded and sick, it was converted during WW 2 into the residence of the American Ambassador to Poland and as a result suffered no damage. On the death of Mr. Vaisse, his nephew, Mr. Reille-Soult, Duke of Dalmatia inherited the Château and opened it to the public in 1955. Today his descendants, represented by Count Bruno de Sauvebeuf and his family, live in the Château all year round and have assumed responsibility for preserving its authenticity and family character.
8.00 pm Dinner at the Château du Plessis Anjou
Dress code: Smart or smart casual
Overnight: Château Du Plessis Anjou Journey from Ecuille - 14 miles (25 mins)
49220 La Jaille-Yvon - Maine-et-Loire - France
Hosts: Valerie Benoist-Vadot & Claude-Eric Vadot
Tel: 00 33 2 41 95 12 75 - Fax: 00 33 2 41 95 14 41
E-mail: plessis.anjou@wanadoo.fr
The Château du Plessis is a lovely, aristocratic country home. The Plessis has been in Valerie Benoist’s family since well before the Revolution, but the antiques throughout the home are later acquisitions of her great-great-great-great-grandfather. The original furnishings were burned on the front lawn by revolutionaries in 1793. Furnishings throughout the home are elegant, yet the Benoists have established an atmosphere of homey comfort. Artistic arrangements of fresh-flowers abound and you can see the cutting garden from the French doors in the salon that open onto the lush grounds. The well-worn turret steps lead to the beautifully furnished accommodation. In the evening a large oval table in the dining room provides an opportunity to enjoy the company of other guests and the country-fresh cuisine. Dinner is a wonderful four-course meal with selected regional wines to complement each course. Advance reservations must be made. The Vadots are a handsome couple who take great pride in their home and the welcome they extend to their guests. Valerie and Claude-Eric are pleased to carry on the tradition of service and welcome established by Valerie’s parents.
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château de Plessis Anjou for day tour
Suggestions for places to visit today
 Abbaye de Fontevraud Price: € 6.10
Fontevraud Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 41 51 71 41 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Journey from La Jaille-Yvon – 70 mils (2¼ hrs)
Not only is the Abbaye de Fontevraud the largest and most intact abbey in France, it is also one of the most extensive monastic sites in Western Europe. Although relatively little remains of the great 11th century abbey, even the few buildings that survived the Revolution had to serve for over 150 years as a national prison. Apart from the soaring abbey church, the most interesting part is the kitchen, a rare example of secular Romanesque architecture, flanked by apsidal chapels and topped by 20 chimneys. The grounds cover over 14 hectares. A lovely peaceful site.
Les Caves Veuve Amiot Price: Free
23, rue Ackerman, Saumur Open: 10.00 am
St Hilaire St Florent Saumur Last admission: 5.00 pm
Tel: 00 33 2 41 83 14 14 Journey from La Jaille Yvon – 14 miles (½ hr)
Tour the cellars of this fine wine maker and sample the local ‘methode champenoise’ sparkling wine, which is considered to be the best in France outside of Champagne itself.
Loire de Lumiére I, Boat trip Price: €7.00
St Martin de la Place Tours depart at 2.30, 4.00 and 5.30
Tel: 00 33 2 41 45 24 24
Journey from Fontevraud – 7 miles (¼ hr)
Take a 1¼ hr long boat trip, with commentary in both French and English, along the beautiful Loire River between Saumur and St Martin de la Place. Learn about the river itself, both in the past and present, the dangers of the sandbanks and watch the wildlife as we drift slowly along. The tour is escorted by an ornithologist from the Society for the Protection of Birds, allowing you to share his interest during the trip and binoculars will be issued to you on the day.
7.30 pm Dinner at La Table de Meunier
Tel: unknown
Dress code: smart casual
Reservation for 5
Overnight: Château Du Plessis Anjou Journey from St Martin de la Place – 53 miles (2 hrs)
49220 Jaille-Yvon (La) - France
Hosts: Valerie Benoist-Vadot & Claude-Eric Vadot
Tel: 00 33 2 41 95 12 75 - Fax: 00 33 2 41 95 14 41
 The Château du Plessis is a lovely, aristocratic country home. The Plessis has been in Valerie Benoist’s family since well before the Revolution, but the antiques throughout the home are later acquisitions of her great-great-great-great-grandfather. The original furnishings were burned on the front lawn by revolutionaries in 1793. Furnishings throughout the home are elegant, yet the Benoists have established an atmosphere of homey comfort. Artistic arrangements of fresh-flowers abound and you can see the cutting garden from the French doors in the salon that open onto the lush grounds. The well-worn turret steps lead to the beautifully furnished accommodation. In the evening a large oval table in the dining room provides an opportunity to enjoy the company of other guests and the country-fresh cuisine. Dinner is a wonderful four-course meal with selected regional wines to complement each course. Advance reservations must be made. The Vadots are a handsome couple who take great pride in their home and the welcome they extend to their guests. Valerie and Claude-Eric are pleased to carry on the tradition of service and welcome established by Valerie’s parents.
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château du Plessis for Château des Ormeaux Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
Chinon Journey from La Jaille Yvon – 68 miles (1 ½ hrs)
A busy and interesting small town on the leafy River Vienne, Chinon is dominated by the ample ruins of its mediaeval castle. Once it was a royal residence, best know as the place where, in 1429, Joan of Arc first persuaded the Dauphin Charles to let her take command of an army in order to drive the English out of France.
In the Middle Ages, Chinon developed especially during the reign of Henry II, Henry Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, crowned King of England in 1154. The castle was rebuilt and extended, becoming one of his favourite residences. It is an attractive town with picturesque cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses and worth a leisurely stroll.
Château Villandry Price for Chateau and Gardens: €7.50
Villandry Open: 9.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 47 50 02 09 Last admission: 6. 00 pm
Journey from Villandry – 20 miles (40 mins)
A much-altered château, Villandry retains only the keep, from its original fortress building. The state apartments of the Château contain 18th century furniture and tapestries, together with pictures by Italian and Spanish painters of both the Renaissance and Baroque periods. There is also a very fine Hispano-Mauresque wooden ceiling, which originally came from a 13th century mosque, which was bought by the owner of the Château at auction and then later fitted together – a task which took some 15 years to achieve. But the Château is notable above all else, for the re-creation of its 16th century gardens, which are some of the finest examples of the formal style known as ‘á la française’ in existence. Whilst they were originally laid down in the 16th century, they were altered in the 19th century to reflect the English style that was more fashionable at the time. Today they have been restored to their original splendour and comprise three terraces, reflecting symbolic designs and decorative effects with practical use by including vegetables, herbs and fruit within the beds. The planting, clipping and pruning statistics are mind-boggling.
8.00 pm Dinner at Château Des Ormeaux
Dress code: Smart to smart casual
 Overnight: Château Des Ormeaux Journey from Tours 16 miles (½ hr)
Route De Noizay - La Bardouillère
Nazelles - 37350 Amboise - France
Hosts: Emmanuel Guenot
Tel: 00 33 2 47 23 26 51
Fax: 00 33 2 47 23 19 31
The Château des Ormeaux is a spectacular, cream-stone castle nestled on the hills above the Loire. Long-abandoned, it was restored by the owners to create a luxurious bed and breakfast, while lavishing detail to achieve the home of their dreams. Off the handsome entry the salon is set with comfortable sofas and chairs round a wood-burning fire. Continuing on, the dining room is gorgeous in blues and golds, with a lovely cabinet displaying a wealth of silver and a dramatic, deep-red chair, which brings out the reds in the wonderful Oriental carpets. Climb the elegant staircase to the bedchambers, each named for a French composer. Endless trails, tennis courts, a gorgeous pool, and wonderful table d’hôte dinners make a stay here an absolute delight.
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château des Ormeaux for day tour
Suggestions for places to visit today
Shopping in Tours Journey from Nazelles Négron 17 miles (½ hr)
Tours is a huge and thriving industrial and university city, which has managed to preserve (with much recent restoration) its historic heart. The straight wide boulevards provide excellent shopping facilities, lively restaurants and bars. Local museums are devoted to mediaeval and fine arts, craft guilds, waxworks and wine. The Gothic cathedral has beautiful stained glass. This is a city know for it’s markets, and Tuesday mornings is the traditional market day on Boulevard Heuteloup.
Château du Chenonceau Price: € 8.00
Chenonceaux Ladies Gallery Waxwork Museum € 3.00
Tel: 00 33 2 47 23 91 97 Open: 09.00 am
Last admission: 6.00 pm
Journey from Tours 21 miles (40 mins)
 Chateau du Chenonceau
Known as the “Château des Dames” and considered the Val de Loire’s finial, Chenonceau is a supremely elegant Château, whose arched gallery spans the River Cher, and is a huge draw to tourists from all over the world. The building work was supervised by Katerine Briçonnet, whose husband, Thomas Bohier, was a royal tax collector and embezzler. François I confiscated it and later Henry II gave the Château to his mistress Diane de Poitiers, as a love token. She added a bridge to shorten her ride to the hunting forest on the other side of the River Cher. On Henry’s death, his queen, Catherine de Médici, confiscated the Château from Diane and added a two-storey gallery to the bridge.
It was later saved from the rigours of the French Revolution by a Mme Dupin. The interior is well furnished, with a vast ensemble of 16th and 17th century tapestries and a great number of masterpieces, the most renowned by Rubens, Tintoretto, Rigaud, Nattier and Van Loo, and good period furniture.
It is possible to visit without a guided tour, as notes are available. All in all it is an extremely elegant and charming Renaissance palace, surrounded by fine formal gardens and a park.
There is also a new wax museum in the dôme’s Building, showing women who built Chenonceau: Katherine Briçonnet, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de Médicis, Maria Stuart, Louise de Lorraine, Madame Dupin, Madame Pelouze. It offers an historic journey through Chenonceau from the Renaissance to World War I : 1518 – 1918 and has a sumptuous collection of costumes made according to genuine documents. All in all a charming walk into the past.
7.30 pm Dinner at Chez Hippeau Journey from Nazelles – 3 miles (10 mins)
Amboise
Dress code: Casual
Reservation for 5
Overnight: Château des Ormeaux Journey from Chenonceaux – 10 miles (20 mins)
Route De Noizay - La Bardouillère - Nazelles - 37350 Amboise - France
Hosts: Emmanuel Guenot
Tel: 00 33 2 47 23 26 51 - Fax: 00 33 2 47 23 19 31
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Château des Ormeaux for Le Prieré St Michel Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
Sées Journey time from Nazelles- Négron - 105 miles (3 hrs)
A small, peaceful town on the River Orne, Sées is hardly large enough to justify a grand 18th century bishop’s palace and cathedral. This is a fine twin-spired 13th and 14th century Gothic building with good stained glass in the crossing and a sweet 14th century marble virgin.
 Pays d’Auge
The Pays d’Auge is the fertile hinterland of the Côte Fleurie and is Normandy at its best; for here is the heartland of cider, Calvados and cheese providers. Colourful manor houses, toy Châteaux with moats, red tile roofs and patterns of timber, brick and stone. Traditional thatched roofs, planted with flowers are less common, but they do exist.
La Ferme Président Price: €5.00
Camembert Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 33 36 06 60 Last admission: 4.00 pm
Closed between 12.00 and 2.00 pm
Journey time from Sées 25 miles (¾ hr)
Normandy produces over a quarter of the nation’s meat and dairy produce including the celebrated cheeses of Livarot, Pont l’Eveque (one of my favourites) and perhaps the most famous of all, Camembert.
It was in Normandy, the land of cattle-breeding and farming, the green district in the heart of a cheesemaking and dairy tradition, in a small market-town known as “CAMEMBERT” that the original “Normandy Camembert” made of fresh milk curdled with a scoop was first introduced in its definite form by Marie Harel in 1791.
Her success continued to spread around. The extension of the railroad and the use of wooden poplar packaging enabled her to travel in suitable conditions and made her success known throughout France as well as throughout the world.
In the absence of special protection, the “Camembert” name is authorized for use in the whole of France as well as abroad. However, the scooped-curdled fresh milk Camembert was awarded the highest distinction mark by the decree of 31 August 1983.
Visit the Président Camembert Museum. See the traditional methods using unpasteurized milk and moulding by hand using a ladle; this Camembert has the guaranteed origin stamp. Video film showing the firm's activities. Free tasting at the end and all products are on sale at the dairy shop.
Le Chateau de St Germain-de-Livet Price: € 5.75
Saint Germain-de-Livet Open: 11.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 31 00 03 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between 12.00 noon and 2.00 pm
Closed on Tuesdays
Journey time from Camembert 16 miles (½ hr)
 Chateau de St Germain de Livet
Visit one of the great manor houses of Normandy. This house, a fairy-tale vision with pepperpot turrets, an arcaded courtyard and pink and white check stonework, is an absolute jewel. There are guided tours of the interior of this furnished 15th and 16th century moated manor. This is delightful and so very, very peaceful.
 Chateau du Breuil Price: € 2.50
Le Breuil en Auge Open: 9.30 am
Tel: 02 31 65 60 00 Last admission: 5.15 pm (last tour)
Closed between: 11.15 and 2.00pm
Journey time from St Germain-de-Livet - 11 miles (20 mins)
A land of picturesque half-timbered houses, lush green pastures and apples orchards. A land of rich culinary tradition based on its fine local products: butter, cream, world famous cheeses and of course...apples!
Normandy is also a country of rich historic and architectural heritage, located in "Pays d'Auge". Nestled in the green heart of Normandy stands the Château du Breuil. This attractive slate-roofed château was built in the 16th and 17th centuries and the home of nobility. Among the note-worthy families that lived in the castle are the Bouquetot, the Montgomery, the young "Tancrède de Rohan", the Bence.
Listed as an historical monument, the Château has been entirely restored by its new owners who have been distilling spirits for three generations.
The apple is the basic ingredient to make quality Calvados. The mild and damp weather and clay soil of the Pays d'Auge give the Château du Breuil ideal growing conditions for its 22,000 apple trees which surround the castle.
The Château Du Breuil Company produces its own cider, coming from a 100% natural fermentation. Their know-how and experience are the strengths of the Château du Breuil, which gives priority to high quality rather to quantity. When cider has reached its proper flavour, distillation can start...
The distillation process takes place between the beginning of winter and June 30th of the following year. To make one litre of Calvados 100% pure alcohol, about 27 kg apples or 20 litres of 5% volume cider are necessary.
Unlike Calvados "AOC", Calvados with the AOC "Pays d'Auge" requires cider apples produced in Pays d'Auge area and a double distillation. It makes a finer Calvados, due to the quality of apples given by the soil of this area, and to the elimination of the roughest parts of the alcohol during the distillations. The Château du Breuil produces exclusively AOC Pays d'Auge Calvados.
In the cellars, Calvados ages only in oak casks. The Château chooses its barrels carefully, because the kind, size and age play a very important part in the quality of ageing. The subtle exchanges between wood, air and alcohol give Calvados its smooth flavour and bouquet. Each Calvados is different, each cellar master has his own secret that he keeps jealously. The delicate and perfect tastes of our Calvados depend less on their old age than on the success of its blending, created by Thierry Collin & Philippe Lamon, Château du Breuil's cellar masters. Please note that this distillery can be done on the way out in the morning, if we don’t manage it this afternoon – last tour is at 5.15 pm.
Chateau du Breuil
8.00 pm Dinner at Le Prieuré St Michel
Dress code: Comfortable – and please work up an appetite today – Isabelle’s Norman portions are more than generous here!
Overnight: Le Prieuré Saint Michel Journey time from Le Breuil-en-Auge - 24 miles (40 mins)
61120 Crouttes–Vimoutiers Journey time from St Germain-de-Livet – 14 miles (½hr)
France
Hosts: Viviane & Jean-Pierre Ulrich
Tel: 00 33 2 33 39 1515 - Fax: 00 33 2 33 36 15 16
E-mail: Leprieuresaintmichel@wanadoo.fr
Prieure St Michel
 It is not often that you can actually reside in a historical monument, but you can do just that at Le Prieuré Saint Michel. The complex has been authentically restored and is truly a masterpiece. The granary is now used for various exhibitions and concerts, the giant press where the monks produced Calvados brandy is still intact, and the lovely little chapel is an art galley featuring the sketches of many French artists. Equally outstanding are the splendid, meticulously tended gardens. There is an old-fashioned rose garden featuring an incredible variety of fragrant roses from days of yore. In contrast there are the “new” rose, iris and herbal gardens. Each is laid out as they would have been in the days of old. Two ponds with ducks and swans complete the idyllic scene. In summer, the grounds are open to the public, but guests are assured of their privacy with their own intimate little garden. Each of the cottages is handsomely decorated.
8.30 – 9.00 am Depart Le Prieré St Michel for Le Lion d’Or Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
The Calvados Distillery, if we didn’t manage it yesterday
In the fist light of dawn on 6th June 1944 the largest military invasion of all time – “Operation Overlord” began. Over 175,000 soldiers from the USA, Great Britain, Canada, France, Poland, Belgium, Norway and Holland, were ferried across the English Channel in over 11,000 aircraft and 5300 ships. 23,000 parachutists – one British division in the east and two US Divisions to the west, landed behind the German lines, which were protected by the “Atlantic Wall”. 136,000 men were landed – the Second US Army on Utah and Omaha Beach to the west and the Second British Army on the Calvados beaches of Gold, Juno and Sword to the east. Protected by covering fire from warships and supported by a massive air attack from bombers, fighters, supply gliders, balloons etc, so began the massive invasion of landing ships for men, vehicles, tanks, artificial harbours, or “Mulberries” as they were known, and fuel pipelines for the push for freedom. By 12th June 326,000 and by 29th July well over 1,500,000 allied soldiers had landed.
Utah Beach Price: Free
Journey time from Crouttes - 100 miles (2½ hrs)
Journey time from Breuil-en-Auge – 89 miles (2 hrs)
Under the command of Major General R D Barton, the 4th Infantry Division’s mission was to join up with the 101st Airborne Division; Establish a bridgehead around the area of Quinéville, St-Mère-Eglise, Ste-Marie-du-Mont and join up with the 82nd Division near the river at Merderet.
While the parachutists were attempting to regroup the transportation of troops in landing craft went ahead without hindrance. Forty minutes before Zero Hour, the guns of the naval vessels opened up and the 276 attack aircraft of the 9th US Airforce went into action. The assault on Utah consisted of 4 waves: The first comprised 20 LCPVs each with a team of 30 men: The second wave numbered 32 LCPVs with the remainder of the two assault battalions, some Engineers and 8 teams of Marine Sappers: The third, timed to land at 15 minutes after Zero Hour, comprised 8 LCTs loaded with bulldozer tanks. This wave was to be followed 2 minutes later by the fourth wave mainly composed of detachments of the 237th and 299th Battalions of Engineers, responsible for clearing the beaches. By the end of the day, the 4th Division had attained almost all of its objective. 23,250 men, 17,000 vehicles and 1,695 tons of supplies had been landed. Quite an achievement.
Utah Beach Landing Museum Price: €4.50
50480 Ste-Marie-du-Mont Open: 10.00 am
Tel : 00 33 2 33 71 53 35 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between: 12.30 pm – 2.00 pm
Follow the guided tour of the American D-Day landings at this excellent museum. Watch an introductory film about the landings, see archive film and exhibits of scale models, equipment and staff maps.
Pointe du Hoc Journey time from Utah Beach - 27 miles (40 mins)
Position - between Omaha and Utah beaches.
225 members of the 2nd Battalion of Rangers commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Rudder. Mission to capture the 6 gun German battery at La Pointe du Hoc protected by concrete bunkers and vertical cliffs. These batteries had to be taken in order to free the beaches from the danger they represented.
Unknown to the Rangers, the six 155mm guns had been withdrawn and sited further to the rear of the battery, having being the target of heavy shelling during the previous few days. Using firemen’s ladders, fitted to barges, ropes and grapnels fired from rifles and mortars, the Rangers reached the top of the cliff, despite being shot at by German fire from a fortified house. There were few casualties and they took up their positions having overcome the enemy resistance. However, counter-attacks by a far greater number of Germans, determined to eliminate the Rangers, caused heavy losses among the 3 isolated Companies of Rangers who has suffered losses and were running short of ammunition. On the morning of the 7th, the strength of the units on the Pointe du Hoc was down from 225 to just 90 or 100 fighting men, many of whom were wounded. They had no food, were low in ammunition and were pinned down in the ruins of the enemy fortifications, which had been destroyed. On the 8th in a concerted attack by the 5th Rangers and the 1st Battalion of the 116th Infantry Regiment and the 3rd Battalion, plus 5 tanks and backed by fire from the destroyer Ellyson, La Pointe du Hoc was cleared. An exhausted Colonel Rudder survived, but the weight of the casualties was always to lie heavily on his conscience.
Musée des Rangers Price: € 3.50
Quai Crampon - 14450 Grandcamp-Maisy Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 92 33 51 Last admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between: 1.00 pm and 3.00 pm
This museum tells the story of a crack American unit that trained for this special D-Day assignment in 1944: the assault and capture of the Pointe du Hoc. With the help of texts in both French and English and plenty of photographs, the visitor is taken easily through the story of the Rangers. The actions of Colonel Rudder and his men are described with a wealth of detail. The visit includes an exhibition of documents, objects and personal belongings of these glorious fighting troops and ends with an 18 min. video show.
Musée D-Day Omaha Price: € 5.00
Route de Grandcamp - 14710 Vierville sur Mer Open: 10.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 21 71 80 Last Admission: 5.00 pm
Closed between 12.30 pm and 2.00 pm
Journey time from Pointe du Hoc - 6 miles (10 mins)
The museum is located on the Omaha Beach site at Vierville sur Mer between the cemetery at Colleville and the Pointe du Hoc. Some outstanding items on display: a landing craft, German armoured turret, aircraft engines, radio optics, Enigma, Goliath, photos, documents.
Musée Mémorial d’Omaha Beach Price: € 5.00
Omaha Beach Open: 09.30 am
Rue de la Mer - 14710 , St Laurent –sur-Mer Last admission: 5.30 pm
Tel: 00 33 2 31 21 97 44 Journey time from Pointe du Hoc - 6 miles (10 mins)
The museum is in the US sector near Omaha Beach, known as “Bloody Omaha”. It covers every phase of the landings from the period of occupation up until D-Day. An exhibition of World War II weapons, uniforms and military vehicles and numerous photos offer a graphic picture of the Omaha landing. All explanations are given in French and English. In the car park there is a US Sherman tank, a 155mm long Tom gun (unique in Normandy) and an LCVP landing craft.
The mission of the 82nd Division, commanded by Major General M B Ridgway, and the 101st Division, under the command of Major General M D Taylor, was to seize Ste-Mère-Eglise. Cut the RN 13 linking Cherbourg and Paris. Establish a bridgehead on the west bank of the River Merderet and prevent it being crossed by the Germans. Prevent any attack on Ste-Mère-Eglise and control the coast where the naval landings had already begun.
Each Division was a force of 7000 men, comprising 3 Regiments plus communications, medical teams and 200 infantrymen per Division. All arrived in gliders. In all, 1662 aircraft and 512 gliders were used for the operation. To land a total of 14000 parachutists required over 900 drops from a height of 200m. Dropped in successive waves, they were hampered by anti aircraft fire, low cloud and poor radio communication and soon became scattered: the fact that some landed at sea, some behind enemy lines and others in the difficult terrain which had been artificially flooded only added to their problems. On the first day, 2,500 parachutists were dead, but most of the vital missions were successfully accomplished. The heaviest Allied losses on that first day were on Omaha Beach where over 6,000 died as the Germans fired down on them from the cliffs as the invading soldiers waded ashore, weighed down by their heavy packs. There is a large US cemetery nearby at Colleville St Laurent-sur-Mer should you wish to pay your respects and reflect in peace.
8.00 pm Dinner at the Lion D’Or
Dress code: Smart casual
Overnight: The Lion D’Or Journey time from Omaha Beach - 13 miles (½ hr)
71 rue Saint-Jean
14400 Bayeux
France
Tel: 00 33 2 31 92 06 90
Fax: 00 33 2 31 22 15 64
e-mail: lion.d-or.bayeux@wanadoo.fr
8.30 - 9.00 am Depart Le Lion d’Or for Ouistreham Luggage day
Suggestions for places to visit today
Bayeux Tapestry Price: € 7.40 includes headphones
Le Centre Guillaume le Conquerant, Bayeux Open: 09.00 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 51 25 50 Last admission: 6.00 pm
The Bayeux Tapestry is one of the great historical records of the Middle Ages in Britain and lies, not in a library, and not even in Britain, but in a specially-built tourist centre in Bayeux, France. The Bayeux Tapestry tells the tale of William the Conqueror's invasion of England through pictorial panels and it remains one of the best sources of information on early Norman dress, armour, castle-building, boat-building, hunting, and other facets of daily life
Despite its name, it is not actually a tapestry at all! It is embroidery, using coloured wool, on 8 long strips of bleached linen which have been stitched together to form a continuous panel some 20 inches high and 230 feet long. We don't know the exact length of the original tapestry, because the final strip is tattered, although its present length fits pretty closely around the nave of Bayeux Cathedral, suggesting that it was custom-built for that church.
It is not known for certain who commissioned the tapestry, though the likeliest candidate is William's half-brother Odo, Bishop of Bayeux from 1050-1097, or one of Odo's followers. Although the story is told from a Norman point of view, the style of the needlework indicates that the tapestry was actually made in England. For many years a pleasant tale told of William's wife, Queen Matilda, and her ladies making the tapestry as a gift for her victorious husband, though this now seems little more than pleasant romantic fiction.
The tapestry story begins with Edward the Confessor sitting in regal splendour with Earl Harold Godwinson. Harold then sets sail for Normandy, where he lands, perhaps by accident, in the domains of Count Guy of Ponthieu. Count Guy takes Harold to Duke William and the Duke brings Harold with him on campaign against the Bretons. Harold fights bravely and receives armour from William. At Bayeux Harold makes an oath (of uncertain nature) to William and is freed to return to England. In England, Edward dies after some unspecified deathbed words to his advisors, and Harold is crowned king. When William hears the news he prepares an invasion fleet. The fleet lands near Hastings in Sussex, and meets Harold's troops in a fierce battle. After heavy losses, Harold is killed and the Saxons flee. The tapestry ends there, though we may surmise that a final panel showing William on the throne may have existed, corresponding to the original panel of Edward.
Much of the story shows events in Normandy. We can only guess that the tapestry was meant to show Edward sending Harold (the obvious Saxon choice as his successor) to William to cede the crown to the Duke.
Harold is shown as William's vassal (receiving arms from William) and the oath he swore is presumed to be an act of forswearing his right to the crown in William's favour. The deathbed scene may represent Edward telling his advisors that William was his choice as successor. Harold's very legitimate claims to the throne are ignored in this heavily slanted Norman account. History, as we are constantly reminded, is written by the victors.
The tapestry was not executed in continuous sequence. The first two strips were clearly made separately; the margins are spaced differently, and do not match. There are also differences in the way Normans and Saxons are portrayed between panels.
Harold's Death? One of the most famous scenes in the Bayeux Tapestry purports to show the death of Harold at the Battle of Hastings. One of the Saxons appears to receive an arrow in or about the right eye. For centuries this was interpreted as meaning that Harold died from an arrow in the eye. Many historians now believe that the man depicted is one of Harold's knights, not Harold himself. Contemporary Norman accounts say only that Harold fell in battle, so we do not actually know if the "arrow in the eye" story is true. The tapestry was the victim of a well-meaning restoration attempt in the last century, which resulted in modern stitching filling in the gaps in the fabric, with dubious accuracy. For all its faults, both material and in historical "truthfulness", the Bayeux Tapestry remains one of the true treasures of the Norman period in English history
M.K.B Longues-sur-Mer Price: Free entry to battery, but guided tours are available at €5.50
Longues-sur-mer Open: Any reasonable time
Tel: N/A
Journey time from Bayeux 5 miles, 12 mins
Marine Küsten Batterie (M.K.B) Longues-sur-Mer is perhaps the most familiar of the German batteries of the ‘Atlantic Wall’. The four Regelbau M 272 gun bunkers are still equipped with their armament (or parts of it at least). A must see for every Normandy tour.
Museé du Debarquement Price: €6.00
Place du 6 Juin, Arromanches les Bains Open: 9.30 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 22 34 31 Last admission: 6. 00 pm
Journey time from Longues–sur-Mer - 5 miles (8 mins)
It was in July 1943, at the Quebec Conference, that the civilian and military authorities were told about the decision for a large scale landing on the European continent. The plan, called OVERLORD, was to carry out the landing away from any continental harbour. The terrible experience of DIEPPE in August 1942 proved to the Allies that they could not manage to capture an existing port. A Harbour town would be very fiercely defended, and the port, once captured, would be so badly damaged that it would be no longer of any use.
The idea was to create off the coast at Arromanches, more or less in the centre of the assault area, a large roadstead sheltered from the swell by the construction of an artificial breakwater. There were to be four unloading wharves connected to the shore by roadways. All these installations were to be prefabricated in Great Britain and towed across the Channel the day after D-Day.
The Mulberry (the port's official code name), about 500 ha (1235 acres) in area, had to be able to handle 7,000 tons of supplies daily and to be in use a fortnight after the landing. The plan was for it to be operational until October, unloading of supplies started on 18th June. It was Lord Mountbatten who had the idea to develop artificial ports: " As we have no harbour at our disposal, we shall bring our own. "
In order to create a roadstead sheltered from the swell, the plan was decided to sink concrete blocks called PHOENIX weighing several thousand tons each along a line parallel to the shore. They were up to 70 metres long, 15 metres wide and 20 metres high with a weight of 7,032 tons for the heaviest.
As it was impossible to put the PHOENIX blocks into position quickly, 17 ships were sunk off the shore on June 7th. These " blockships " were used to break the swell of the open sea. Unloading quays were installed inside the roadstead. They were huge wharves l,200 square yards (l,000 M2 ), able to move up and down with the tides. They were built so that they would slide along stakes driven into the bottom of the sea.
Sir Winston Churchill, who had the idea to create this harbour (hence its name of Port Winston later) wrote to Lord Mountbatten about the wharves: " They must float and up and down with the tide. The anchor problem must be mastered. Let me have the best solution worked out. Don't argue the matter. The difficulties will argue for themselves".
To connect the platforms to the shore, flexible metal roadways (a bridge structure lying on floats made out of steel or reinforced concrete) were constructed.
In July 1944, when Montgomery launched the attack on Caen, 136,000 tons of supplies and numerous vehicles were landed in one week, approximately 20,000 tons daily.
The harbour was closed down on 19th November 1944 and then dismantled. The platforms and most of the floating roads were broken up and reused for the war effort. Most of the Phoenixes and all the blockships, after the war, were used in the reconstruction of Normandy.
Today, only 20 Phoenixes, 10 concrete floats and one platform extension can be seen off the shore and on the beach.
This permanent exhibition of the landings was created in 1953 and officially opened on 5th June 1954 by the ex President of the Republic, Monsieur René Coty. The museum is run by the Commité du Débarquement, under the chairmanship of Monsieur Raymond Tiboulet, former Minister and the first Sous-Préfet of liberated France.
The museum stands on the very site of the artificial harbour, the remains of which can still be seen a few hundred yards offshore. One of the most interesting aspects of a visit to the museum is offered by a series of very detailed scale models, some of them animated, which demonstrate the movement of the tides.
This gallery is made all the more interesting by the fact that it faces the sea and is within sight of the remains of the original structures. The items on show are therefore remarkably well integrated in the historical site.
The tour continues with a diorama showing the landings from the seaward direction, looking towards the shore. The interplay of lighting and sound effects places the viewer in realistic surroundings and helps him to understand what went on along the Normandy coast from that dawn on the 6th June 1944.
Before viewing the contemporary film shot by British Admiralty photographers, covering the broad outline of the design, construction, transportation and use of the artificial harbour, the visitor may wish to visit the South Gallery of the museum where an exhibition includes contributions by every country which participated in the invasion.
Arromanches 360 Price: € 3.70
Chemin du Calvaire, Arromanches les Bains Open: 10.10 am
Tel: 00 33 2 31 22 30 30 Last admission: 5.10 pm
In Arromanches 360, you will be at the heart of the event. This film, "the price of the freedom" presented on 9 screens in a circular theatre, mixes unreleased footage from archives of war correspondents with present day pictures shot on location in now peaceful settings. With its 360-degree projection, you will be plunged into the heart of the action, among the fighters on D-Day, and will thus feel all the intensity of this great moment of the Normandy Landings. To see, to understand, to meditate ... This special trip back in history, this return to the past to the landing beaches on D-Day is an intensive, emotional and unforgettable experience. Shows are staged at 10 past and 40 minutes past the hour daily.
7.30 pm Dinner at La Valise Gourmand Journey time from Arromanches 16 miles ½ hr
Cresserons
Tel: 00 33 2 31 37 39 10
Dress code: Smart casual
10.00 – 10.15 pm Depart Cresserons for Ouistreham Journey time from Cresserons 6 miles, 12 mins
10.30 pm Check-in at Brittany Ferries in Ouistreham
Reservation No: TJ
11.30 pm Depart Ouistreham
Overnight: On board Brittany Ferry
2 x Commodore Class cabins
Premier service with spacious, luxury cabins. Complimentary cabin service includes continental breakfast, morning coffee or afternoon tea. Please remember to order your breakfast before you retire for the evening and move your clocks back one hour to take account of British Summer Time.
Breakfast on board, if ordered the night before
6.30 am Arrive Portsmouth
o/a Drive straight to London Gatwick Luggage day
9.45 am Check-in at South Terminal
12.45 pm Depart London Gatwick on AA 135
I would like to re-stress that this proposed itinerary is totally flexible, depending on how you feel each day, and the attractions are purely suggestions. If any place of interest particularly appeals to you, then please let me know and we will make a point of getting there above all others, and if we are driving along and you think another road looks more interesting, then let's take it - I am all for discovering new places.
I would be most grateful if you could plan to arrive promptly at any pre-arranged meeting point particularly in towns or cities where it is often very difficult for me to park or wait for passengers and any assistance that you are able to give me in this respect will be very much appreciated.
|
